The Ajrakh Guide: How to Identify Authentic Ajrakh Prints

Ajrakh print

16-10-2024

Finding the extraordinary charm in the history of Ajrakh’s designs is like unraveling a storyline. Ajrakh — This is a traditional technique of block printing that originates from the regions of Kutch in Gujarat and Sindh in Pakistan and has been valued for thousands of years. It is a story of rich heritage, told through intense earthy hues and elaborate patterns in Ajrakh fabrics.

Nevertheless, with the increasing demand for these fabrics, there is an influx of regular imitations in the market. This guide is for the Ajrakh connoisseur, a gateway to understanding this printing style through its historical roots, distinct features, and intricate processes that it boasts of. So, let us transport you all into that ecstatic world of Ajrakh and help you identify the authentic attire- let’s get started. 

A walk through history: the origins of Ajrakh printing

Ajrakh Printing is a tradition that has been around for over 4500 years; there is evidence in history linking this craft with the Indus Valley Civilization and when consumption of Indigo was at its peak. This ancient art form was first practiced by the Khatri community and has survived through generations as an emblematic expression of the cultural journey of India and its nearby regions.

Ajrakh is a timeless textile craft, with its name originating from the Arabic word “Azrak,” meaning “blue,” emphasizing the dominant color in its intricate patterns. Traditionally, the Ajrakh fabric was employed in both dress and ceremonial uses, marking it as an emblem of good luck and cultural redemption. Understanding this deeply rooted history enhances your appreciation for genuine Ajrakh prints while guiding you in identifying authentic pieces.

How to recognize real Ajrakh

So, how do you know if it is Ajrakh and not a look-alike? Here’s how: 

Guide to the patterns and designs

Ajrakh Pattern and Design

The genuine Ajrakh prints originate symmetric and geometric designs with floral motifs representing a bond to the environment. However, there will be lots of imperfections as well, which is something that makes this craft stand out and reminds you of the hard work that has been put into creating those intricate designs using hand-block printing. On the other hand, and as a counterpart, screen or machine prints will ,  seem all  even throughout and will not have the classic block end join mark of hand block printing

Check the color palette

Authentic Ajrakh uses natural dye extracted from plants and minerals that give the color  subtle yet deep tones. The colour spreads deep into the fabric and is uneven due to natural fabric texture. In another screen, the machine processes the synthetic colour and is usually spread evenly throughout the print and is brighter but less pigmented.. Kohl black, Deep indigo blues, earthy reds, verdant greens and warm yellows are also closely associated with the traditional art of Ajrakh printing. Also, if you look closer at the fabric, you will notice colors deep-seated on the material indicating excellent craftsmanship while dyeing it.

Attributes of Ajrakh print

While exploring original Ajrakh prints, there are a few salient features.

Two-sided printing

Ajrakh Two Sided Printing

One of the key characteristics found in old original Ajrakh fabrics is the two-sided printing, so print gets reflected directly on the other side of the cloth. This is a very time-consuming process and is rarely used in current times for commercial purposes. 

Fabric variety

Ajrakh is printed on a diversity of textiles, ranging from cotton to silk. The material used varies greatly in texture and visual style, which you typically will only be able to find on genuine pieces ordered from the hands of artisans themselves.

Unique patterns

Ajrakh Unique Pattern

Each Ajrakh print tells its own story, often inspired by folklore, nature, or elements from everyday life, making the patterns not just visually appealing but also culturally significant. Geometric intricate patterns with body and borders especially play an important role. 

The process of making Ajrakh: craftsmanship unveiled

Authentic Ajrakh prints take days to make, and the amount of labor and handwork it takes sets apart its value. It is a multi-step fabric preparation technique followed by resist printing and dyeing

Fabric practice

This process starts with the fabric’s careful washing to take all elements away, and then it is treated with natural mordants to ideally assist in color absorption and binding.

Block printing

Artisans carve traditional designs by hand into blocks of wood. The motifs are hand-carved onto wooden blocks, which are then used to stamp on the fabric, followed by a process of dyeing and layering, often requiring several blocks to create intricate patterns.

Multiple dyeing rounds

The fabric undergoes a mixture of natural dyes in different solutions, having each step precisely timed to get the intended colors. This intricate process may involve inserting the fabric into an indigo vat multiple times to achieve that signature deep blue shade.

Finishing touches

The fabric is given a final wash and treated to help it retain all its colors and textures with an eye on lasting beauty. Again, this multi-step process is very laborious but absolutely necessary to uphold the product quality. This is the artistry that sets real Ajrakh apart from low-cost imitations.

Recognizing the GI tag of Ajrakh print

An essential factor distinguishing genuine Ajrakh from other textiles is the Geographical Indication (GI) tag that has been awarded to artisans of Kutch Ajrakh. 

This prestigious certification officially recognizes the unique techniques and qualities associated with this craft, safeguarding it from unauthorized reproductions. During Ajrakh prints shopping, verify this GI tag as an authentic logo and also provide additional help to real artisans.

Shopping for authentic Ajrakh prints online

Once you’re equipped with the proper knowledge to identify authentic Ajrakh, you’re ready to explore the extensive collections available online. Festive Folks is an excellent destination for finding stunning Ajrakh print clothes designed specifically for women. 

Our collection includes beautiful tops, shrugs and blouses designed and manufactured using authentic Ajrakh print fabrics for optimum style and comfort. Along with  these we have a range of Ajrakh dupattas, featuring elegant patterns that beautifully complement any outfit; the Ajrakh flower print scarf, which adds a splash of color to your outfit. The stylish Ajrakh print indigo art tie scarf is perfect for adding a touch of elegance to both casual and formal occasions.

As you navigate through the online shopping landscape, remember to apply the tips outlined in this guide. Look for original motifs, deep and rich earthy colors, and authentic craftsmanship to ensure that you’re investing in genuine Ajrakh pieces that celebrate culture and tradition.

Cherishing the craft of Ajrakh with Festive Folks

​Knowing how to identify authentic Ajrakh prints not only enhances your shopping experience but also deepens your appreciation for this ancient craft.​ Embedded with history and culture, every piece of Ajrakh fabric carries the legacy of skilled artisans who have perfected their technique over generations. 

By choosing authentically crafted Ajrakh prints, you are not just owning a piece of fabric; you are embracing a rich heritage that connects you to a broader narrative of art and tradition. Use this guide to enrich your understanding of Ajrakh and let each purchase reflect authenticity and craftsmanship that lasts a lifetime.

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